Angulas is a baby eel. It stands out for its slightly crunchy texture and for being the only fry legally sold in Europe. Recipes that use it are simple, seeking to emphasize its texture and softness. Its price is luxurious.
What was once a common fish on the table of many homes is now considered a luxury fish. With prices exceeding €7,000 per kg, the elver is the most sought-after fry on the Atlantic coast. It could not be otherwise with the plummeting population, which is now close to extinction. Today, we tell you what the elver is, what makes it so expensive, and the environmental problems that surround it.
What is the Elver
The elver is a juvenile eel ( Anguilla anguilla ), the only one that is permitted to be caught in Europe. It weighs just 1 g and measures about 8 cm. It is born in the Sargasso Sea, a landlocked area up to 7,000 meters deep that is located on the other side of the Atlantic.
The eggs are laid and hatched there, giving rise to a transparent, leaf-like larva, millimeters long, which feeds on zooplankton. It reaches European coasts immersed in a large nebula or ball of larvae, on a journey that can last between one and three years.
As soon as it reaches the beginning of the rivers, which it will ascend to develop its adult stage in fresh water, it begins its metamorphosis. The first sign of transformation is the change in colour. A dark pigmentation appears on the upper part, giving rise to the varieties of white-backed elver and black-backed elver.
Wild elver fishing in coastal regions takes place between November and March and is carried out under strict regulations that vary depending on the Autonomous Community. These regulations arose from the need to protect this species that practically disappeared from inland basins in the 1960s due to the construction of reservoirs. In general terms, all communities that have Eel Management Units seek to encourage their growth with restocking and maintenance measures in the Mediterranean and with maximum fishing quotas established throughout the Atlantic. In all cases, a specific fishing license is required, which entails keeping the number of catches, the date and the required time up to date.
How much does a kg of fresh elvers cost and why are they so expensive?
The price per kg of elvers varies annually depending on the success of the reproductive season, which is currently not possible to monitor, the number of elvers that manage to reach the western coasts, and the weather during fishing days.
In the most abundant years since 1970, between 1,500 and 1,700 kg of elvers have been harvested. In recent seasons, on the contrary, the catch has been around 700 kg. This circumstance and instability gives rise to extremely high prices, breaking its own record in 2022 when the kg of elvers was auctioned for €7,280 at the Ribadesella auction house.
Once the auction of the first nights of fishing, which are the ones that command the highest price, is over, the price can vary. According to Angulas Ibaialde, one of the main distributors on the northern coast of the peninsula, last winter it was around €88 per 100 g in wholesale sales. To give us an idea, 20 years ago the same amount would have cost us 100 g.
The astronomical rise in price of almost 600% is also due to the demands of using the traditional fishing method with a sieve, the great specialisation and licence required by fishermen, the exclusive status that the elver has developed as food and, as we mentioned earlier, the plummeting population.
How to catch elvers: area of capture and season
Angulas are caught between October and March using dense nets, specifically sieves, elongated poles with a net at the end, similar to a butterfly net with a cloth that provides tension instead of a loose bag. The capture areas are mainly the mouths of rivers, among which the Ministry of Fisheries highlights the Miño River in Spain. The other notable natural capture area is the Ebro in the Mediterranean.
When fishing for elvers, it is very important to bear in mind that they cannot stand the light outside or the clarity of the water. During the day they rest hidden in the mud and can only be seen on the darkest nights. Fishermen know this, and for this reason, they prefer nights with a new moon and rain, which help to increase the turbulence of the water, making it easier for the elvers to emerge. Equipped with the sieve, they carefully place it on the mud so that the tide will accompany the elvers to it.
Nutritional value of elver
Angula provides up to 142% of the Recommended Daily Allowance (RDA) of vitamin A, 37% of vitamin E, 25% of vitamin B12, 24% of vitamin B2, 17% of thiamine, and 18% of vitamin D. In terms of minerals, it is worth highlighting 24% of phosphorus, 22% of zinc, 10% of sodium and 5% of iron.
- Energy (kcal): 213
- Carbohydrates (g): 0
- Fats (g): 16.5
- Saturated fats (g): 2.8
- Vitamin A (mcg): 1000
- Vitamin D (mcg): 110
- Vitamin B12 (mcg): 1
- Vitamin B2 (Riboflavin) (mg): 0.32
- Vitamin B1 (Thiamin) (mg): 0.17
- Vitamin E (mg): 5.6
- Iron (mg): 1
- Zinc (mg): 1.8
- Potassium (mg): 270
- Phosphorus (mg): 170
Properties and benefits of elver
We investigate the advantages of eating elver, a good source of different types of vitamins and phosphorus, all of which are nutrients with interesting benefits for the health of our eyesight, our cells, and our nervous system, for example.
Good vision in the dark
Vitamin A is a vitamin that is involved in multiple processes such as reproduction, the immune system, and cell division. However, one of the functions for which it is best known is related to the development of pigments in the retina that allow good vision in dim light. Angula provides more than 100% of the RDI per 100 g.
Antioxidant and cardiovascular health
The vitamin E present in elver contributes to the formation of red blood cells and is essential for the cellular coordination of various physiological processes such as intercellular communication or the synthesis of vitamin K. In addition, it also has an important antioxidant role that promotes good cellular health.
Strong bones and nervous system
Angulas is rich in vitamin D, which helps the correct absorption of calcium in the bones, promoting good bone health. It is also essential in the protection of nerve cells, so its consumption is related to an improvement in cognitive performance.
Healthy metabolism
The amounts of phosphorus present in elver contribute to the formation of bones and teeth, as well as to the metabolism of carbohydrates and protein synthesis. Together with the B vitamins, it also carries out functions such as muscle contraction or kidney function.
Contraindications of elver
Angulas have no contraindications. Although their fat content is high, the vast majority, around 65%, corresponds to monounsaturated fats with beneficial effects on health such as improving the cardiovascular system.
What is the difference between angula and gula?
The elver is the fry of the eel, an 8 cm long fish harvested using traditional methods at the mouths of the western Atlantic and the Mediterranean.
Gula is a substitute, not a fish derived from eels. Specifically, gula is a surimi, that is, a conglomerate of fish meat from different origins. This substitute is marketed with the same appearance as elvers would have once cooked. If you want, you can find out more about the differences between elvers and gulas and eels.
Recipes with elver and its uses in gastronomy
The distinctive feature of the angula is its texture. The white loin is notable for being more buttery, while the black loin angulas, which is the most mature variety, is vigorous and crunchy. Both varieties are used for simple preparations that respect the smoothness of their flavour and enhance their crunchiness. The best-known recipe is angulas a la bilbaína, a Basque emblem that only requires four ingredients: angulas, olive oil, garlic, and chilli. It is one of the most widespread preparations among kitchens and restaurants that work with this product, as well as its presentation in salads.
Problematic?
It is impossible to talk about a product like the elver without covering all the problems that surround it: environment, history, and illegal trade. The researcher Miguel Clavero, a senior scientist at the CSIC (Higher Council for Scientific Research) states that the eel population has declined by 95% since 1980. The best-known reason is the interference caused by reservoirs in their life cycle. Their presence makes it impossible for the elver to go upriver where it would continue to grow until it reaches its adult stage.
Furthermore, the veneration of the elver as a delicacy increased in contrast to the decrease in population; catching one meant the prize of having found it and selling it for up to 7000 euros per kg, a problem aggravated by its illegal sale on the black market. Although European laws prohibit its sale outside the borders, elvers are sold alive illegally to Japan, China, and South Korea where they are bred and fattened to supply the demand for eel.
According to scientist Clavero, the only way to avoid the total extinction of the eel is to prohibit its consumption completely and at any stage of its life. Otherwise, it can only predict its complete disappearance.